Stairway to Riesling Heaven: Weiser-Künstler's 2019ers

Stairway to Riesling Heaven: Weiser-Künstler's 2019ers

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      Riesling can be made into such a wide range of wines that it is overwhelming. That's its strength and its weakness. Few other grapes can cover such a spectrum of dry to sweet, but that range is not easy to navigate — especially in German. Wading into the depths of great Riesling is far easier when we receive a lineup like Weiser-Künstler's staggering 2019 vintage. Here is a trove of wines that covers a full range from haltingly dry to salaciously sweet. They nail each classification of the arcane German labeling system to its Platonic ideal, which makes these wonderful for learning about the many classifications.  Yet the wines so are full of energy and beauty that it feels like the labeling system was made to conform to Weiser-Künstler's own unflinching vision of what Mosel wine can achieve. These are not only Rieslings for wine nerds excited about a good vintage: these have the power to convert the non-believers and make the devout start speaking in tongues. Yes, I'm comparing the Weiser-Künstler 2019s to a religious experience. 

      I've picked my favorites of each category of sweetness here, from the super-dry Gaispfad Kabinett Trocken to the sweet Gaispfad Auslese. The Ellergrub Spätlese, as always, is a standout, as is the Schlossberg Kabinett. If you have to pick just two of the lineup, try those. But the rest I would buy in pairs of each, if not more, because as thrilling as they are to drink now, they will be profound with age.