The Nervous Crackle of Life: Michel Gahier's Jura Wines

The Nervous Crackle of Life: Michel Gahier's Jura Wines

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      There is a rumor that Michel Gahier is such an unassuming, shy man that his legendary neighbor Jacques Puffeney was willing to give him much of his estate upon retirement -- had his friend Michel simply asked. Instead, Puffeney sold it all to the Marquis d'Angerville, of Burgundian fame. But fame and reverence isn't likely Gahier's goal. Instead, we get one of the more isolated figures in the region making a style of wine that largely exists because it was developed in relative isolation from the rest of France. Not to belabor the isolation thing, it's maybe enough to say that Michel Gahier is one of the few Jura producers that allows us to dig deep into the Jura's quirks without going broke. He farms organically and uses minimal sulfur (maybe not enough for some) but it allows the wine to show off a crackling, wild energy that is in contrast to Gahier's more staid persona.

      The only catch is that they are very limited, though we are fortunate to have more to offer than in years past. Don't sleep on these if you are a fan of Gahier, the Jura, or even vaguely curious about the region.

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